Geo is correct on the issue of the kilt production. A regimental kilt will have no less than 8 yards of 16-17 oz worsted wool that is hand sewn. (I can only hope that the MOD procurement has not tendered for a 10 oz fabric and machine made kilt - a machine made kilt for a Highland Regt is just so wrong). For a 2000 odd kilt order that is a lot of fabric to weave and make into kilts. And let's not forget that there is a shortage of kiltmakers that have the capacity to produce that many kilts in a short time frame (Perhaps Cohen's could handle the order but they would be producing machined kilts - they are the main manufacturers for Marks and Sparks). The average time frame for a man's 17 oz hand sewn kilt with an average waist size of 40" and approx 21 - 11 cm set in pleats (that amount is usually for a casual kilt, not a regt one - the pleats tend to be closer together and in some kilts they are actually box pleats - those ones don't tend to wrinkle as much - it does take more fabric to make a box pleat kilt), is approx two weeks - if it's worked on 8 hours a day. Then there is the design, spinning and knitting of the hose, all 4000 odd little sockies. That will keep some knitters busy for a while. Again, there is a proper weight to the wool and knitting technique (depending upon the final pattern chosen) Just a bit of cool kilt trivia, there is actually formula sets for setting in a pleat followed by all kilt makers.
When I order a kilt, I am governed by the SOBHD regulatory criteria on weight, length, number of pleats and amount of fabric and it has to be hand sewn. All my kilts are hand sewn and even in a rush order, I still can expect to wait 3 weeks for mine. I was chatting to my kiltmaker over the holidays and on this issue, he said a fair number of kiltmakers are hesitant to bid for the contract as it would alienate them from their regular customers (dancers, pipebands, pipers and tourists/Hollywood celebs) by tying up their resources. He didn't know if the contract also included repairs and maintenance which would further tie up their resources and make then an "all eggs in one basket kilt maker." He also mentioned that there would be "bloody blue murder to pay" if the contract for making a Scottish Regt's kilts went outside of Scotland. I doubt as Geo does, that the delays have anything to do with the lack of purchasing will but rather the lack of kiltmakers and readily available raw materials.
(Little bit of history, I have my great grandfather's kilt that he wore in WWI - other than a small hole in the apron (which he would not allow to be repaired as it was a bullet hole which he was purported to be quite proud of it not hitting him - just the kilt) and a mud stain that won't come out, it's in great condition. I also have his child's kilt that he wore when he was 4. My grandson now is wearing it. A kilt that is properly made and cared for will last for decades (and in my case, a century and a bit)
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