# Arctic Tent Lacing



## cdn031 (12 Dec 2008)

I was going to resurrect a 2 year old post but given
"Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 100 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic. ":

I wil ask something more specific:
When lacing up the 5 man arctic (as in lacing in the liner...), does one knot at the lace points or leave it free floating? 
(Still one long cord)
I've seen this done both ways - wondering if there is a practical reason for one way or the other


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## Nfld Sapper (12 Dec 2008)

You talking about the two lines of para cord on the inside to dry clothing?


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## cdn031 (12 Dec 2008)

Yes 
I've learned that one should use a contrasting colour (Not white)
but seen the two line sets knotted (with slack)  takes time
-or- 
Left loose (they bunch up a little) , but fast to do


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## Nfld Sapper (12 Dec 2008)

GridNorth said:
			
		

> Yes
> I've learned that one should use a contrasting colour (Not white)  I use 550 cord
> but seen the two line sets knotted (with slack)  takes time
> -or-
> Left loose (they bunch up a little) , but fast to do



Generally I thread it through all the eyelets ensuring that I leave some extra length to allow for it to be stretched out when the tent is pitched then tie off in a reef knot. (been awhile since I have had to thread a new tent togethere)


EDITED FOR SPELLING


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## Nfld Sapper (12 Dec 2008)

And the Basic Cold Weather Training Pam (B-GL-323-003/FP-001) gives little direction to lacing other than:



> e. Thread the long or the lower drying line through the drying line keepers. To get
> the drying line keepers through the inner seam splits, feel through the liner at the
> peak or centre of the doorway, follow up the seam on the panel of the outer tent,
> when you reach the drying line keeper, insert it through the split seam of the liner
> ...


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## catalyst (12 Dec 2008)

on the CIC cold weather course we were directed to just have it 'unknotted.


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## ammocat (12 Dec 2008)

Been awhile since I have been in an artic tent. We sometimes had problems with the lines getting caught or tangled during set up. To eliminate this problem small key rings were attached to the keepers, this keeps the keepers exposed through the liner. The drying lines can be quickly threaded through the key rings when required and be quickly removed just prior to tear down.

Cheers,


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## chrisf (13 Dec 2008)

Having spent a lot of time eating up class A money working for the quarter master repairing and inspecting arctic tents... the most irritating problem I've found is when some silly fool uses paracord or the thin green utility cord for the drying lines... it catches between the upper and lower sections of the pole and binds in the threads... make sure you use the heavier cord as is used on the wind lines.


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## cdn031 (15 Dec 2008)

Just a Sig Op said:
			
		

> the most irritating problem I've found is when some silly fool uses paracord or the thin green utility cord for the drying lines... it catches between the upper and lower sections of the pole and binds in the threads... make sure you use the heavier cord as is used on the wind lines.


Really?

The Wind Lines I've seen use a VERY heavy cord & Plastic tensoning slab.. I can't imagine threadig this thru the brass Eyelets attached to the outer...its gotta be 1/4 inch or more... plus it mught encourage the not-so-bright to hang heavy things... Still,  thanks!



			
				ammocat said:
			
		

> Been awhile since I have been in an artic tent. We sometimes had problems with the lines getting caught or tangled during set up. To eliminate this problem small key rings were attached to the keepers, this keeps the keepers exposed through the liner. The drying lines can be quickly threaded through the key rings when required and be quickly removed just prior to tear down.



KEY RINGS are  a great idea and may eliminate the above issue... now where to find stainless split rings bu the box... And I've already lost count of how many I"ll need!

Thanks!!

Any other tips & tricks not covered in the pam?


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## TCBF (15 Dec 2008)

- Assembly: Line up the stovepipe holes (NOT the doors: they are offset) and lace from there.
- Tie the pole into the apex.  Pole may need to be drilled and a key ring inserted through it to hold a washer, below which the wrapping can be done.
- Drill the pegs and tie them onto the lines permanently.
- Reverse the lines so the loop is at the tent end, not the peg end.
- NEVER tie a knot in a guy line to shorten it.
- NEVER strike, fold, and pack tentage with steel spikes tied to the lines.


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## chrisf (15 Dec 2008)

GridNorth said:
			
		

> Really?
> 
> The Wind Lines I've seen use a VERY heavy cord & Plastic tensoning slab.. I can't imagine threadig this thru the brass Eyelets attached to the outer...its gotta be 1/4 inch or more... plus it mught encourage the not-so-bright to hang heavy things... Still,  thanks!



Same cord as the wind lines. Fits through the keepers, it's a perfect fit... almost as if it were designed to go there... 

As I said, anything smaller will get stuck inside the two pole sections, takes lots of grunting and swearing to get it out somtimes.

With regards to heavy things, on a sloppy wet exercise, my combat jacket+windpants can easily weigh 20-30lbs. They get hung on the drying lines, no problem.



> KEY RINGS are  a great idea and may eliminate the above issue... now where to find stainless split rings bu the box... And I've already lost count of how many I"ll need!
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> Any other tips & tricks not covered in the pam?



Have supply order them from wherever they order their PPS, most office supply places will sell bulk key rings. Larger are better (two inch).

I've also seen it done with loose binding rings, but these have a habit of popping open, and with a bent nail passed through the roll and then wrapped silly with electrical tape, but these have a problem of being difficult to remove.

Another tip, don't ever let anyone walk on the tent when it's collapsed, even if they're just stepping on it for a second to reach a windline... the pressure between rocks on the ground and your boot cuts small holes in the tent!


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## Nfld Sapper (15 Dec 2008)

TCBF said:
			
		

> - Assembly: Line up the stovepipe holes (NOT the doors: they are offset) and lace from there.
> - Tie the pole into the apex.  Pole may need to be drilled and a key ring inserted through it to hold a washer, below which the wrapping can be done.
> - Drill the pegs and tie them onto the lines permanently.
> - Reverse the lines so the loop is at the tent end, not the peg end.
> ...



NEVER light the stove or lanterin INSIDE the tent. Lost count how many times I have kicked a stove out the damn door because some numpty failed to follow this rule and flooded it out resulting in almost catching the tent on fire.
Also you might want to tie a knife to the pole in case the tent catches fire. Make your exit hole  ;D


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## Bzzliteyr (15 Dec 2008)

Oh and when in the perimiter of the tent, don't eat the yellow snow!!


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## Nfld Sapper (15 Dec 2008)

Bzzliteyr said:
			
		

> Oh and when in the perimiter of the tent, don't eat the yellow snow!!



Tip of the day  ;D


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## chrisf (15 Dec 2008)

The NFLD Grinch said:
			
		

> NEVER light the stove or lanterin INSIDE the tent. Lost count how many times I have kicked a stove out the damn door because some numpty failed to follow this rule and flooded it out resulting in almost catching the tent on fire.



Can we consider beating out the fire with said numpty as a viable option as well?


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## OldSolduer (15 Dec 2008)

Just a Sig Op said:
			
		

> Can we consider beating out the fire with said numpty as a viable option as well?


Consider that carefully. Said numpty maybe of a higher rank who "knows better".


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## Nfld Sapper (15 Dec 2008)

OldSolduer said:
			
		

> Consider that carefully. Said numpty maybe of a higher rank who "knows better".



Sounds like you speak from experience OS  ;D


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## OldSolduer (15 Dec 2008)

The NFLD Grinch said:
			
		

> Sounds like you speak from experience OS  ;D



Indeed I just might.


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## Harris (15 Dec 2008)

Wooden clothes pins work well to keep your nearly dry kit from being knocked off the drying lines to become wet kit again.


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## OldSolduer (15 Dec 2008)

Harris said:
			
		

> Wooden clothes pins work well to keep your nearly dry kit from being knocked off the drying lines to become wet kit again.



Good tip!! Safety pins on your suspenders work as well. The bigger the better.


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## ammocat (15 Dec 2008)

Safety pins are great. Too bad the 5.56mm bandoleers don't have the black safety pins like the 7.62mm ammo did. When I was in the infantry we got all the key rings from supply, they were probably 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter. The whole company had them. 

Another thing they had (that I wasn't a big fan of) was brass spring loaded hooks, similar to the what is on the end of a dogs leash for clipping on to the collar. These brass hooks would allow the guidelines to be removed from the tent so that the spikes don't puncture the tent when it is rolled up. I felt they slowed down the set up though. Loops in the guidelines worked better. Put the spike through the loop, spin the spike so the loop tightens on the spike and then drive it in. Even when frozen you could untwist the loop and get the spike out during tear down. The brass loop were great for attaching to pocket knives and such, before everyone had the mini karabiners.


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## geo (16 Dec 2008)

Bzzliteyr said:
			
		

> Oh and when in the perimiter of the tent, don't eat the yellow snow!!



Ahh... the mark of the dreaded "snow snake".....


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## geo (16 Dec 2008)

the more low tech the better.
green para cord through the eyelets with a reef knot where they knot makes it very easy to detach and remove when it is necessary to take the liner out.  The key rings IS a good idea but, requires more work when it comes time to dismantle.
Tying the main pole to the top of the tent is an excellent point- trying to thread the pole in place late at night, in a snowstorm is an accident looking for a place to happen.... especialy with respect to those drying lines.  When not in use, the pole is simply collapsed and folded up with the tent.

Knife tied to the main pole should be an SOP - in a fire, lives depend on a speedy egress - and the fire started at the door - where some numpty was trying to bring in (or eject) a stove or lantern.


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## Nfld Sapper (16 Dec 2008)

geo said:
			
		

> Knife tied to the main pole should be an SOP - in a fire, lives depend on a speedy egress - and the fire started at the door - where some numpty was trying to bring in (or eject) a stove or lantern.



You'd think that geo but sadly it ain't.


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## TCBF (16 Dec 2008)

- The black safety pins on the bandoleers were painted brass.

- Use curtain hooks to hang the gear.  Otherwise, in a wind, you will wake up in the morning and find the stuff from the drying lines under your sleeping bags.


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## TCBF (16 Dec 2008)

The NFLD Grinch said:
			
		

> NEVER light the stove or lanterin INSIDE the tent. Lost count how many times I have kicked a stove out the damn door because some numpty failed to follow this rule and flooded it out resulting in almost catching the tent on fire.
> Also you might want to tie a knife to the pole in case the tent catches fire. Make your exit hole  ;D



- Trained troops should be proficient at lighting lanterns and stoves inside.  A well maintened and properly lit stove or lantern should never flare with good fuel.  A bit of experience and finesse is required.

- I fear we have lost the fine arts of dismounted snow life.


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## catalyst (16 Dec 2008)

Tie paracord around the base of the pole (the plastic thing the pole sits in).....it easliy gets burried in the snow.


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## OldSolduer (16 Dec 2008)

Catalyst said:
			
		

> Tie paracord around the base of the pole (the plastic thing the pole sits in).....it easliy gets burried in the snow.


Another good point.

I agree with TCBF....to a point. I'm sure there are many who light the stove and lantern in the tent, and are as safe as if they were outside.
Our current operation in the Sandbox has impeded our skills in winter.


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## George Wallace (16 Dec 2008)

As for the knife on the para cord - in case of fire......make sure it is a long piece of cord that will reach the bottom of the tentage, and that the knife is sharp.

With the amount of time it takes for that tent to go up (about three seconds) it is quickest to simply roll through the wall.  It is in flames, and you are staying low not to breath the toxic fumes.  You are also rolling on the ground, putting out any flames that you may have 'accumulated'.


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## TCBF (18 Dec 2008)

George Wallace said:
			
		

> As for the knife on the para cord - in case of fire......make sure it is a long piece of cord that will reach the bottom of the tentage, and that the knife is sharp.
> 
> With the amount of time it takes for that tent to go up (about three seconds) it is quickest to simply roll through the wall.  It is in flames, and you are staying low not to breath the toxic fumes.  You are also rolling on the ground, putting out any flames that you may have 'accumulated'.



- The sleeping bags could be a greater risk than the new tent liners.  The old tent liners (replaced in the mid/late seventies) were nylon and VERY flammable: the flames would burn straight up to the apex and the burning liner would then collapse onto the sleeping bags... So, the old liners were much more dangerous (but also much warmer).

- Watch out for arctic turnips!

 ;D


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## elecgitarguy (29 Dec 2008)

> Trained troops should be proficient at lighting lanterns and stoves inside.  A well maintened and properly lit stove or lantern should never flare with good fuel.  A bit of *experience* and finesse is required.



*experience* is something we seem to be lacking..how many times have you said, "I think Pte. Bloggins is taking care of the stove tonight" and sure enough, that SAME PERSON(s) always end up doing the same tasks.

This is an issue that goes farther than just how to safely light a stove...perhaps related to more serious tasks that everyone should be familiar with?


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## Lerch (30 Dec 2008)

TCBF said:
			
		

> - Watch out for arctic turnips!
> 
> ;D



Arctic turnips? Is this something I even want to know?


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## Kat Stevens (30 Dec 2008)

Old school, and no, you don't.  Doesn't anyone use the giant flat washer and cotter pin to keep the pole secured any more?   Also tie the baseplate to the base of the pole with about a foot of 550 cord.  Don't forget to run an arctic candle up and down all the zippers before you head out, and at regular intervals during the Ex.


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## Lerch (30 Dec 2008)

We had the cotter pin and washer in use in Gagetown when I did my Arty course in November, so that idea hasn't been lost


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