# Questions on the Cooking and Boiling Unit / Boiling Vessel



## Steve 1 RNFLDR (8 Feb 2013)

The powers that be have made the colossal error of giving me a Bison.   I like to think of it as a self-propelled tea kettle with a machinegun.  

Trouble is, my BV won't work on generator power.  It'll only run with engine power.  One of our drivers suggested ensuring the ignition switch was on when I was running on generator power.  Still no joy.  It shouldn't be an issue of insufficient power; I've tried it with the PDU turned off in order to take the radios out of the equation.  I know they'll run on generator power in some of our Bisons, just not mine.  Any suggestions?

On a related note, we've got an older model of BV (including its four-pin cable) in our TN seacan.  The instructions on the lid say that it isn't to be run without water "except when frying," as opposed to the newer model which states on the lid that it isn't to be used for frying.  Does anybody have any experience with frying stuff in the BV?


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## Ludoc (8 Feb 2013)

What version of the Bison are you using? (C3I, Amb, Mrt, Mrv?)


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## Steve 1 RNFLDR (8 Feb 2013)

C3I, I guess we'd call it.  RRB.  

And I've just found frying instructions.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/33227572/Tank-Combat-120-mm-GUN-Challenger-Part-2-Fighting-Systems


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## davies.jd (8 Feb 2013)

LOL.  You actually plan on using the CBU?  Even frying with it?  Post pictures if you ever get it to work!

I remember the BV version we used to have had a little spigot on the side for hot water.  Trouble was, with the positioning of the BV right there on the floor, there wasn't enough space to get a mug of any sort under it!  (Not sure I would have trusted the water that came out anyways!)  Our Bison had 120V AC outlets in the back anyways, so we just packed a kettle.  Way more useful.

Sorry, don't remember if we ever got the CBU to run on just generator power or not.  I do remember the never-ending Bison power issues though.


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## MikeL (8 Feb 2013)

I'd be surprised if the CBU even works;  not something we ever tried using anyways.  IMO it might be more trouble then it's worth,  especially frying.... clean up.. smell... possible fire hazard and burns, etc.  Kettle would probably be the way to go,  we always had one when I was in a Bison.


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## Journeyman (8 Feb 2013)

roxie roller said:
			
		

> (Not sure I would have trusted the water that came out anyways!)


 The "no mess tins" generation :    Sorry, what?  What were we talking about, again?  :-\


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## chrisf (8 Feb 2013)

Knowing nothing about the boilnig vessel, or indeed, the electrical configuration of a bison, I will tell you what the problem likely is.

The boiling vessel operates on the 24VDC electrical system, your generator supplies 120Vac.

With the engine off, the batteries will not supply sufficient power to operate the boiling vessel, either there's an automatic disconnect to make sure you don't run down the batteries, or, just as likely, you'll run down the batteries trying. Or possibly trip breakers in a rectifier if installed.

I've run into similar issues with CP varients of the LSVW, which have rectifiers to supply the 24VDC comms gear when operating off the 120Vac generator.

It's extremely unlikely though, that a rectifier, if installed, has the capacity to handle your boiling vessel.

End result, it's probably the correct operation.

Of course, that's just a guess.

If you've got a generator, get an electric kettle, $10 at walmart.


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## PuckChaser (8 Feb 2013)

I've used it, but it was off vehicle power. Does the C3I(RRB) have the Prosine Inverter/Charger system to charge the vehicle batteries while you're on generator power? You should be able to tell right away if its working, the amps will spike on the charger when you're running the BV similar to when you transmit on the radio.

Second the eletric kettle.... mmmm hotdogs.


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## Bzzliteyr (8 Feb 2013)

a Sig op has the correct answer, 24v vs 120V.

In the Coyotes we had to run the vehicle and preferably at high idle.  

FYI, there are three settings on the power switch (if I recall) down (low), middle (off) and up (high). When I'd fill my BV with ration packs and a small bit of water, I'd run it on low all day and right before lunch (the last bounds or patrol) then I'd flick it up to high on the way to lunch.  Perfectly cooked rations.  I've never fried with it now made anything magical.  I believe I have use it to boil water but only after a thorough cleaning.


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## xo31@711ret (8 Feb 2013)

I'll be dating myself, but never had any problem with the Griz cooking-hot water vessel.....and no, there wan't a pull-start, gerbils on a treadmill or waterwheel....


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## Kat Stevens (8 Feb 2013)

Bzzliteyr said:
			
		

> a Sig op has the correct answer, 24v vs 120V.
> 
> In the Coyotes we had to run the vehicle and preferably at high idle.
> 
> FYI, there are three settings on the power switch (if I recall) down (low), middle (off) and up (high). When I'd fill my BV with ration packs and a small bit of water, I'd run it on low all day and right before lunch (the last bounds or patrol) then I'd flick it up to high on the way to lunch.  Perfectly cooked rations.  I've never fried with it now made anything magical.  I believe I have use it to boil water but only after a thorough cleaning.



I'd just put a little water in a .50 cal ammo can, throw in the days grubb, and cargo strap it to the tow cable on my AVLB.  Really had to be careful opening it at lunch time though... Potential high order!


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## Bzzliteyr (8 Feb 2013)

Kat Stevens said:
			
		

> I'd just put a little water in a .50 cal ammo can, throw in the days grubb, and cargo strap it to the tow cable on my AVLB.  Really had to be careful opening it at lunch time though... Potential high order!



I didn't even start talking about Leopard cooking skills....50 cal? 7.62mm was the standard for 4 rations.  Hole poked in the top and 3/4 full with water. Use the tow cable chain on the back engine grill and it will spill just the right amount of water to have those rats heated properly for lunch/supper.


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## Ludoc (8 Feb 2013)

The boiling vessel will work with the vehicle off. The generator must be on and supplying power. The generator powers the batteries, the batteries power everything in the bison. Sometimes the prosine will not supply power from the generator to the to the batteries if they are too cold or if it detects the voltage is too low. This happens quite often in the winter if the Bison has sat out without being run for a couple days. If you can, take it for a decent drive or run it at high idle for a few hours. That usually warms/charges the batteries enough.

I have never fried with it but it is awesome at heating rations. Just like the disposable heater bags it only requires a little water, so don't over fill it.

Remember to turn on the ignition switch when using it, or it won't work.

It is an electrical device, so if you can't get it to work stop by Tim Hortons on the way to work and then pay a visit to your local EO tech.

Alternatively you may just plug a kettle into the bison's AC power. While there is more than enough power to do so you need to be aware of your over all power plan. Depending how many other things you are powering you may run out of juice. If you are powering a flyaway kit to RRB a second net, a heater for the mod and a coffee pot there will not be enough power to run the kettle with out tripping the circuit. 

If you trust your det members enough to have them unplug the coffee pot before using any other appliance (kettle, sandwich maker, george forman) then go ahead. But it only takes one idiot/lazy jerk to plug two things in at once blowing the circuit and crashing external comms (any nets you are RRBing on a flyaway/static kit, HCLOS etc) Good news is that if you are only RRBing one net the internal comms are on a different circuit than the supplied AC power so you may load can load up as much extra stuff as yhou want without worrying about crashing your comms.


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## cupper (8 Feb 2013)

When I was on exercise with our 5-Ton Wrecker or 5/4 MRT we had a couple of options.

When on a road move we'd put the food pouches on the engine around the exhaust manifolds or between the valve covers. Had to make sure they were secure by using some tie wire to hold them in place. A couple of times I watched someone's lunch hit the road under the vehicle, and smoke pour out from under the hood as food burned.

The other option when in a static position or pulled over for a period of time was to get a decent pot and spark up the oxy-acytlene torch set on the back of the wrecker, or the man-pack in the MRT and heat the water in the pot. Nothing like 3500 deg C to get the water boiling quick.


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## Steve 1 RNFLDR (9 Feb 2013)

Yes, the bison does have a Prosine to invert to DC, and I've made sure the ignition was on.  I don't think the batteries were too low, but I'll try again after the next road move.  

I have a kettle, but I still like having the BV in order to safely boil water on the move, without scalding anybody.  Ideally I'd like to be able to use the BV while static, and not just on the road.

Thanks for the tips.


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## davies.jd (9 Feb 2013)

Well I'm certainly surprised to hear about how many have actually used the CBU, as well as some of the more, ahem, creative cooking methods...

Isn't it just far simpler to use those heater bags for heating meals?


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## PuckChaser (9 Feb 2013)

roxie roller said:
			
		

> Isn't it just far simpler to use those heater bags for heating meals?



If you can get them... its also easier to set up the BV before you take off for a road move/patrol and then have hot meals ready whenever you arrive and finish your set up (to use a Sigs example). Its there, why not use it?


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## Kat Stevens (9 Feb 2013)

roxie roller said:
			
		

> Well I'm certainly surprised to hear about how many have actually used the CBU, as well as some of the more, ahem, creative cooking methods...
> 
> Isn't it just far simpler to use those heater bags for heating meals?



And, when you're on the move on a combat team trace at -20C, it's nice to have a supply of hot water on hand for a fast brew up.


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## PanaEng (11 Feb 2013)

cupper said:
			
		

> When I was on exercise with our 5-Ton Wrecker or 5/4 MRT we had a couple of options.
> 
> When on a road move we'd put the food pouches on the engine around the exhaust manifolds or between the valve covers. Had to make sure they were secure by using some tie wire to hold them in place. A couple of times I watched someone's lunch hit the road under the vehicle, and smoke pour out from under the hood as food burned.


Never lost one from the ML engine block, even after going x-country a bit


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