# Tips on Cleaning the C-7



## Delta (25 Dec 2005)

Can anyone give me some tips on cleaning the C-7 rifle? Even though I cleaned my C-7 the night before inspection, it somehow got dirty in the morning (the chamber part). Anyone feel like the barrel is a b*tch to clean? I did at least 20 something pull-throughs and the it still made the cloth dirty. Merry X'mas by the way and a happy new year.


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## Fishbone Jones (25 Dec 2005)

It's the CLP. It draws the carbon out of the metal. No matter how well you clean it, if you put CLP on it, it will be dirty in the morning. You wouldn't have that problem if you used gun oil, but your not supposed to and I won't tell you to.


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## Munner (25 Dec 2005)

Just take a minute before inspection to giv'er a once over with a rag. 

I found Q-Tips to be crucial to getting the chamber inspection worthy.

Good luck!


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## shaboing (25 Dec 2005)

pipe cleaners are also very effective on various parts


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## jwsteele (25 Dec 2005)

The rifle is nearly impossible to make impeccably clean but is easy to make clean for the purposes of inspection.  Just watch how your section commander wiggles his fingers in it and then do it yourself later and see where he's finding the junk.  Clean those areas really well the night before and just before inspection give it another wipe down and do a pull through on the barrell so if he looks down it he can't see anything.  For field inspections it's most important to have a really clean and smooth working bolt.  And after blasting off a magazine of blanks...your weapon will not be clean again unless the staff gives you a solid hour to clean it.  It never hurts to amnesty bush those stupid blanks either.


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## wongskc (25 Dec 2005)

Further to Recceguy's comments, minimize your use of CLP for cleaning the rifle.  Ironically enough, the rifle will look cleaner if you do a less through job (i.e. not use CLP to clean it) than if you did it properly.


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## George Wallace (25 Dec 2005)

jwsteele said:
			
		

> ..........  It never hurts to amnesty bush those stupid blanks either.


You are a VERY BAD BOY!.... :tsktsk:


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## atticus (25 Dec 2005)

take it in the shower with you and then clean it. my Sgt suggested it but he also suggested not to get caught doing it.


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## Hoover (25 Dec 2005)

jwsteele said:
			
		

> The rifle is nearly impossible to make impeccably clean but is easy to make clean for the purposes of inspection.  Just watch how your section commander wiggles his fingers in it and then do it yourself later and see where he's finding the junk.  Clean those areas really well the night before and just before inspection give it another wipe down and do a pull through on the barrell so if he looks down it he can't see anything.  For field inspections it's most important to have a really clean and smooth working bolt.  And after blasting off a magazine of blanks...your weapon will not be clean again unless the staff gives you a solid hour to clean it.  It never hurts to amnesty bush those stupid blanks either.



Might of been different when I went through but we didn't stand at attention gawking around the room at our instructors fingering our weapons.  

Also, I've never seen a full mag of blanks with my own eyes in my life!!


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## Hoover (25 Dec 2005)

Can of compressed air, paintbrushes, toothbrushes, I've seen it all done. 

I never got picked up for a dirty weapon, was the cleanest thing on my body...smile.


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## Fishbone Jones (25 Dec 2005)

Hoover said:
			
		

> Might of been different when I went through but we didn't stand at attention gawking around the room at our instructors fingering our weapons.
> 
> Also, I've never seen a full mag of blanks with my own eyes in my life!!




Ma





			
				Hoover said:
			
		

> Can of compressed air, paintbrushes, toothbrushes, I've seen it all done.
> 
> I never got picked up for a dirty weapon, was the cleanest thing on my body...smile.



It all might have to do with the extremely limited time you've spent in the military : Having completed only BMQ, you've still got lots to see and learn *"I've seen it all done"* PULLEEEZZE :. Never got picked up for a dirty weapon? Just wait. 

Please get some TI before you start running your gate like a vet.


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## Sh0rtbUs (26 Dec 2005)

Piper said:
			
		

> put some effort into it and you are good to go.




Thats about it in a nutshell. Can someone confirm whether or not its a chargable offense to treat your weapon with water?


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## jwsteele (26 Dec 2005)

Well pardon me for causing such a fuss.  I put lots of effort into cleaning my weapon but I found that generally (especially in the field) it was almost impossible to make the whole weapon clean without it getting a little dirty within 15 minutes.  In regards to amnesty bushing the blank rounds...I don't see the big deal.  I hate firing them.  All they do is make the weapon incredibly filthy and it feels like firing a cap gun.  Obviously I wouldn't dispose of live rounds when my life may depend on them...it's just common sense.  The guy asked for tips on cleaning the C7 and in my limited experience those were the techniques that I found got me through inspections and saved me some time in the field.  It's really not a big deal.


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## chrisf (26 Dec 2005)

All sorts of tips and tricks, but unless you're sure of what you're doing, many of them have the potential to go bad very quickly (Not to say I haven't and don't use them...).

Unless you know what you're doing, stick to CLP, a rag , q-tips, and pipe cleaners.

And don't be an idiot and ditch your ammunition... mostly because depending on the individual, if somone refers you to an "amnesty bush", it means they were probably peeing there


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## atticus (26 Dec 2005)

Piper said:
			
		

> Bad idea. IMHO.



Why's that? I've seen it done (i've never acually have done it) and it worked great. You still gotta acually clean it with CLP afterwards though or it would probably rust.


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## Gunnerlove (26 Dec 2005)

Simple green, hot water and a bunch of scrub brushes and the brushes from your cleaning kit. Oil it up with CLP let it sit for a while then scrub it clean with soapy water and all the brushes. Dry it with compressed air and oil it up again. I treat my weapons like machine tools and clean them as such. Cleaning like this you can get even a C-9 inspection ready in a half hour even if you just put a few thousand rounds through it. 


Now if you are a tool you will end up with a dirty rusty weapon and a charge filed against you.


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## COBRA-6 (26 Dec 2005)

jwsteele said:
			
		

> Well pardon me for causing such a fuss.  I put lots of effort into cleaning my weapon but I found that generally (especially in the field) it was almost impossible to make the whole weapon clean without it getting a little dirty within 15 minutes.  In regards to amnesty bushing the blank rounds...I don't see the big deal.  I hate firing them.  All they do is make the weapon incredibly filthy and it feels like firing a cap gun.  Obviously I wouldn't dispose of live rounds when my life may depend on them...it's just common sense.  The guy asked for tips on cleaning the C7 and in my limited experience those were the techniques that I found got me through inspections and saved me some time in the field.  It's really not a big deal.



You would if I was the Course O and I caught you doing that. Same goes for any of the NCO's that I've had as instructors. Depending on your course staff and what kind of mood they're in, the consequences could range from them firing off a few mags of blanks through your weapon (to ensure you had something to clean that night), all the way up to doing the hatless dance and a hefty fine.


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## NATO Boy (26 Dec 2005)

Tips for cleaning ANY weapon...

1. Shower - It works, if you use hot water (any water works if you're washing out sand or mud.) We were actually instructed to clean the 60mm Mortar in the shower and then wipe it down with Varsol.

2. Baby Wipes - Preferably "Wet Ones." Non-abrasive, highly useable, and they get carbon off C6 / C9 gas parts in seconds. Also good for field baths / getting campaint off before returning to garison. After using them on a weapon, though, be sure to give it a coat of CLP.

3. Brake cleaner - Haven't tried this: mil-surp rifle collectors swear by it (gets carbon off anything.) Guys I've talked to who did their PLQ like it too. Warning: don't confuse brake cleaner with CARBURATOR CLEANER! Carb cleaner is abrasive (strips blueing off of metal and can corode some plastics, ie the plastic handguards.)

4. Mixing CLP and Naptha - Works good on a hot day (and when getting 10 C9s clean in 1 hour with a fireteam partner is your only option.) CLP draws the carbon away from the parts, Naptha evapourates. Weapon wipes down easier/faster. Only recommended for a VERY HASTY cleaning.

5. Steel Wool - BIG NO NO! Unless you're cleaning slightly worn parts with no blueing (read hollow portion of C6 gas piston.)

6. Air can and paint brush - Good if you're in a dry dusty environment where your weapon won't be as oiled as usual (read Arid regions, or Petawawa during the summer.)

7. Coke or pepsi - Work really well for cleaning caked-on stuff on bolt / gas parts. Simply put parts in a container, fill it with a fizzy can/bottle of Coke or Pepsi, and clean something else for a while. Then pull out the parts, dry and lightly oil them, dump the oily Coke down the toilet, and Bob's your Uncle. Mechanics at my local garage do this with tools that start to rust (works like a charm.)

8. Bore Snake (insert calibre here) - One pull-through with this is like 50 pull-throughs with patches and jags. And the boresnake is water / machine-washable too. And, "gasp" it kinda looks like a Gartner Snake!"

These are just a few of MANY: these being more common around me. Try 'em out; see what works for you.


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## zipperhead_cop (26 Dec 2005)

I believe you will be in a world of hurt if you take your weapon in the shower.  That will cause you nothing but problems.  
One trick I used to do with the inside of the barrel was to wrap a 2x4 around the brush and ram it through.  Dont use the pull through, because if the string breaks you are skee-rued.  Use the push rod only.  If you get it stuck, you will look dumb.  But the extra push on the sides will pick up a load more crap.  
We had one guy with us that had an actual set of *dentist picks*.  God knows where he got them but they were brilliant at scraping out the little pain in the ass spots and the metal is soft enough to not scratch the weapon.
I usually went super light on the CLP.  I also tried to get away with not using it at all, because carbon sticks to oil.  Having said that, I will now take the justified pummelling from the better qualified NCO's here for not properly taking care of the weapon.  It was a course trick, not a unit trick and definately not a Roto trick.
We also would try to get away with sticking little bits of crap ie) paper, cotton in the end of the barrel if we knew that we would not be shooting that day.  Again, a course trick that will get you jacked up if you get caught.
In general, get in the habit of cleaning as concurrent activity when you have a bit of down time.  It is good practice, and keeps you from looking idle to the course staff.  
Don't ditch your rounds.  "train as you would fight, and you will fight as you trained".  You dont want the first time you get a level 2 stoppage to be when you are in an ambush in Afghanistan.  Play the game, clean the bang stick.
Also remember:  if your course NCO, warrant, officer wants you to fail your inspection, you will.  Some inspections cannot be passed, regardless of how well you turn out.


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## TCBF (26 Dec 2005)

The old paraflare tubes would fit two FN gas piston rods and a gas plug, then fill it up with Coca-Cola or vinegar, put the end cap on, and shake, then let it sit.  We did NOT leave it overnight - especially using the vinegar.

I liked the US 'Lube Oil Automatic Weapons' or LAW oil.  I did not like their LSA that much.  

Our 3GP335A was the best cold weather stuff we had.  I used that on both Brownings on the Lynx, and sprayed the outsides with WD-40.

You can't beat WD-40 as a rust preventor if spray CLP is not avail, especially on machine guns.

Wrapping a swab around a bore or chamber brush only serves to wreck the brush.

Use the rod handle as it was designed - put the chamber brush on the end of it, and use a rod section as a cross-piece (through the hole in the handle) to make a T handle type chamber brush.  When done, turn rod the other way a bit to loosen the chamber brush or you will tear your hand trying to loosen it.

Use a female end of a rod section to scrape clean the ledge inside the bolt carrier.  Finish with a CLP'd swab over the end of it.

Remember to pipecleaner the firing pin hole in the bolt face (pull the pipeclener all the way through the bolt), and the drain hole in the butt. 

Remember to space your gas ring gaps.

If you completely dry your John Inglis mags for the Pistol and it rains in the Afghani desert, see to them quick or they WILL turn orange on you.

Use dust covers and blow-off caps.

Tom


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## gun plumber (26 Dec 2005)

Hot water will work well at dissolving those carbon deposits.Just remember to dry the weapon and apply a high quality oil to all those nooks and crannies afterward.The C-7 is amazingly rust resistant.This is in part to the fact that 95% of it is made of aluminium.The bore and chamber are chromed(which will still rust if neglected,but is resistant),but the outside is not.One thing I should mention here.When looking from muzzle to breech,you will notice a small,circular surface at the bottom of the flash suppressor.Countless people will tell you to scrape this surface silver.DON'T! This surface is called the crown.It is the last part of the barrel that the bullet touches as it leaves the barrel,therefore,is very important at maintaining accuracy of the projectile.If you scrape this surface and raise burrs or damage the end of the rifling,you could be causing yourself more hassle than good.Also,don't be in a hurry to disassemble that trigger mech.If we find out,you can be in a pile of sh!t.
Any type of bore solvent will do a good job(use as directed),and stay away from "cleaner in a can",it eats bluing and nobody wants a silver weapon during cam and concealment lectures.
Any questions,feel free to PM me.


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## bluesnoser85 (27 Dec 2005)

Always remember to clean the hell out of it after the obstacle course..


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## Hoover (27 Dec 2005)

Just put a condom over the barrel.. smile.


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## Fishbone Jones (27 Dec 2005)

Hoover,


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## SemperFidelis (29 Dec 2005)

: Holy crap...why is it so hard to take care of your weapon?? One day it might take care of you. So put some ******* effort into it.  I cleaned my weapon the night before inspection, and if you haven't noticed by now...they check the chamber for residue and the barrel for "visitors"...they will sometimes check other parts but those are the main ones GENERALLY. So like I was saying...clean your weapon the night before inspection, and in the morning just grab one of those white squares and few mins before inspection dab it in the chamber until it comes clean and run one with the cleaning rods through the barrel ,because more than half the time, if you put on a lot of CLP your weapon will sweat and you will have "friends".  

As far as Farnham goes...we still had inspection, bolt included...best advice for the bolt cleaning is get a Gerber/swiss knife...use it to get the carbon off, dont be afraid to coat it with CLP especially in winter time.   Don't be afraid to clean your weapon, you're instructors are reasonable people, they will tell you to do something and give you a reasonable amount of time to do it in.  Whatever timings they give you, they can be met....they're not out to get you.  It may seem that way at first, but its about using your noggin and you'll realize that the moment you start to use it.  When we had our first weapon cleaning...we did a mediocre job, and our Mcpl told us we needed more work on it, and there was a bit of downtime when we could clean it,and that day we had more than enough time to clean our weapon.  We (in my section) did a pretty shitty job...one guy even had a pube in his barrel. :tsktsk: Everyone in my section got their weapon thrown into the ground barrel first...the WHOLE section.  The next day for inspection...we did a MUCH better job.  Moral of the story ....do it once do it right.  You'll be saving yourself grief and your instructors frustration.  Trust me...shit rolls downhill.

P.S. A tip for basic...just do what your instructors tell you to do, LISTEN to them. Thats really ALL the advice you need. You'll get what you put into it.


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## zipperhead_cop (29 Dec 2005)

SemperFidelis said:
			
		

> Don't be afraid to clean your weapon, you're instructors are reasonable people, they will tell you to do something and give you a reasonable amount of time to do it in.  Whatever timings they give you, they can be met....they're not out to get you.


What fluffy country club basic did you go on???  Did it include sailing, horseback riding and making those nifty macrame bracelets with the beads?  OOOOHHH, I love beads!!


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## SemperFidelis (29 Dec 2005)

and a puppy too....EHEH  *flips the hair


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## Kat Stevens (29 Dec 2005)

Back at the shacks after FTX on CLC (or whatever it is this week):
 - dig out  your can of green SWARFEGA type hand cleaner,
 - strip the weapon, place all gas effected parts on a garbage bag,
 - grab a handful of hand cleaner, and LIBERALLY coat all the parts in the stuff,
 - stuff a big blob into the breach,
 - allow to sit for 20 mins, clean the furniture, buffer, etc,
 - take the parts to the laundry sink, and pour the HOT as you can stand water to the parts, you'll be astounded at the colour of the poo that comes out,
 - dry all parts thoroughly, and lightly oil,
 - wipe again in a few hours, CLP will leach poo out of a rifle forever.
  Failing this, carburetor or brake cleaner will get carbon off anything, remember to oil after, as they remove any traces of lubricants....Oh, and WIZARD PISS (WD40) is your friend.
	
	



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## Blackhorse7 (29 Dec 2005)

Heres a tip, do it the way you were taught to.  Period.

If they don't nail you for a dirty weapon, it will be your rack.  If not your rack, your boots.  If not your boots, your uniform.  They will find something.  And it's just a way to re-inforce that you have to take care of your tools.


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## Kat Stevens (29 Dec 2005)

Well, geez, thanks for that whizzbang tip.  I think the point here is that there are better ways than "oil, wipe, repeat...oil, wipe, repeat".  If you stuck to doing things the way you were taught on basic, you'd be one sorry-assed, inflexible little droid, wouldn't you?  It's not about teaching you take care of your boots, it's about making sure that the one object that will keep you from the War Graves Registry is properly and effectively maintained...


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## Fusaki (29 Dec 2005)

This is what I do with my C9:

1) Cover the weapon in CLP at the range, after you fire. Just take a bottle of CLP and hose the sucker down. The idea is to get this done when the gun is still hot, and waste as much CLP as possible in one big sloppy mess. A paintbrush (around 1" wide) helps here too.

2) Wait a little bit.

3) When you get back to wherever you're going to clean the weapon, detail strip it and run the parts under hot water. The idea is to wash off the CLP and the gunk that comes along with it. I don't know whether or not this is legal, but don't get caught with a rusty weapon (see step 4).

4) Dry off every part as good as possible.

5) Give everything a light coat of CLP, and do all the regular cleaning stuff (pull throughs, bore brushes, pipe cleaners, etc). Make the weapon clean.

6) If you have an inspection the next morning, wipe off as much of the CLP as possible and assemble the weapon.*

7) Just before inspection, give everything a "once over" with a clean rag, then a light coat of CLP. This way when your course staff goes over your weapon, he'll see it's nicely lubricated, but the CLP will not have had time to sweat out more carbon.

*If you don't have an inspection, give a light coat of CLP and return the weapon to your CQ.

Voila!! Clean boomstick!!


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## Blackhorse7 (29 Dec 2005)

Kat, 

So am I to understand from your post that the current way of cleaning the C-7 *THAT IS TAUGHT*, is just a half-assed way of doing it, and once you graduate, that there are better ways?!?  That's just stupid.  If there was a better and PROPER way of cleaning the weapon, I'm sure the CF and the manufacturer would recommend it.

Sure, you can take a weapon and dump it into varsol.  You can spray it down with WD-40.  You can take it into the shower, as others have suggested.  And all of these suggested tricks may get the weapon cleaner.  But the weapon is taught to be maintained a certain way for a reason.  If you want to risk the proper operation of the weapon down the road, be my guest.  But if your weapon fails at a critical moment, like for instance while on patrol in Afghanistan, then don't bitch about it if you haven't maintained it the way you were taught.  That is if you are alive to bitch about it.


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## SemperFidelis (29 Dec 2005)

well said blackhorse


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## Fishbone Jones (29 Dec 2005)

Blackhorse,

You have a point....somewhat. When on course, yada yada. However, anyone that's been in past coffebreak knows there are easier and more time efficient ways to accomplish the same end, without jeopardizing the integrity of the equipment. As to your varsol, WD-40 and shower, I've used all three throughout my 35 someodd with it being standard practice. Motor oil and varsol mix are the standard fare of tank crews. Never received a chit using it, while every CLP weapon got tagged. Some here are young and impressionable, some of us are pretty long in the tooth and have been caring and cleaning long before some were out of diapers. We don't require podium type lectures. Let's try keep it civil.....like it was.


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## Blackhorse7 (29 Dec 2005)

I have to disagree recceguy, read Kat's last post.  It was civil up until then.  I'm simply pointing out that if you are taught to maintain a weapon a certain way, then do it that way.  That being said, I don't use CLP on my service pistol, I use a cleaning product made by Kleen-Bore.  But it IS made specifically for cleaning/lubricating firearms.  Unlike Varsol or WD-40.  And I don't stray from HOW I was trained to clean my weapons.

I don't want to be confrontational.  But if you read the tone of the initial post, it seems like the originator wanted an easier way to clean his weapon so as to not take heat for it on inspection.  Read my first post in this topic.  I'm pointing out to the troop that if he isn't gonged for his weapon, he will no doubt be gonged for something else.

My bad if I came off as a hothead.


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## Fishbone Jones (29 Dec 2005)

Cheers


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## Gunnerlove (29 Dec 2005)

Quote from Armalite (remember they developed the weapon we call the C7)


"CLEANING SOLVENTS AND LUBRICANTS
The military Services generally use a multipurpose chemical called CLP (cleaner,
lubricant, and preservative) sold commercially as “Break Free.” Although it is useful if
nothing else is available, armament engineers prefer individual, specialized products. A
combination of military RBC (rifle bore cleaner) and LSA (lubricant, semifluid,
automatic weapons) is superior. High quality cleaning solvent like Hoppes no. 9 removes
metal fouling from the bore excellently, and Teflon bearing lubricants, such as Bore Cote,
are outstanding lubricants.
Under NO conditions should any lubricant containing graphite be used with your
rifle. Graphite can encourage rapid corrosion to the aircraft-grade aluminum used in your
rifle.
In addition to cleaning solvents and lubricants, the basic cleaning equipment you
will need includes a cleaning rod, brass bore brush, chamber brush, toothbrush, patches,
pipe cleaners, and the most important item: a lint-free cloth. ArmaLite® recommends a
pull-through cleaning cable for efficient, breech-to-muzzle cleaning."

Perhaps the manufacturers are on to something.


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## Kat Stevens (29 Dec 2005)

Yes, half-assed, that's exactly what I said.  Maybe in my 23 years as a Sapper, the "there's a better way" mentality rubbed off a little.  There is a better way always, what you are taught on basic is A way, not THE ONLY WAY.  Kudos to the kid for not wanting to get his shyte jumped on for a cruddy gun.  Thanks for weighing in too, Semper, as your vast experience is invaluable in this instance.


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## Infanteer (29 Dec 2005)

Kat, this is the recruiting forum - keep the target audience in mind when passing on advice.  Blackhorse has a point.

I just lick mine it doesn't taste good anymore.


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## Kat Stevens (29 Dec 2005)

Then I'm wrong.  I give, do it the book way, all the time, no deviations.


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## Infanteer (29 Dec 2005)

Kat Stevens said:
			
		

> Then I'm wrong.  I give, do it the book way, all the time, no deviations.



...you should see the hospital corners on my bed too!   :blotto:


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## Spr.Earl (29 Dec 2005)

Infanteer said:
			
		

> ...you should see the hospital corners on my bed too!   :blotto:


Me too Kat, but vingar all ways got it clean but get the oil in fast. 
Ooop's I did not say that!


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## Shadowhawk (30 Dec 2005)

jwsteele said:
			
		

> The rifle is nearly impossible to make impeccably clean but is easy to make clean for the purposes of inspection.  Just watch how your section commander wiggles his fingers in it and then do it yourself later and see where he's finding the junk.  Clean those areas really well the night before and just before inspection give it another wipe down and do a pull through on the barrell so if he looks down it he can't see anything.  For field inspections it's most important to have a really clean and smooth working bolt.  And after blasting off a magazine of blanks...your weapon will not be clean again unless the staff gives you a solid hour to clean it.  *It never hurts to amnesty bush those stupid blanks either*.



Thanks for showing us that you have the makings of a good leader. Honesty, integrity, ethics, ... etc.

Sarcasm intended

Sorry Guys (and Gals) I couldn't help myself. :


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## AoD71 (30 Dec 2005)

gun plumber said:
			
		

> The bore and chamber are chromed(which will still rust if neglected,but is resistant)



I don't believe chrome rusts, I think you would technically say it "oxidizes".

I don't know if WD-40 is good on moving parts in your rifle, because of special solvents in it, and it causes a build-up of crap (for lack of a better word). I once got that tip for maintaining my milsim paintball marker. I know what you're thinking, but if you shouldn't put it on a paintball gun, why should you put it in a _real_ gun? Thats what I've been told, but I figure its not so much a problem when you clean it hardcore very often, and don't use your gun too much.


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## Fusaki (30 Dec 2005)

Speaking of using Varsol...

In the 1RCR Coy lines we have Varsol Baths built into the weapons cleaning rooms complete with air vents and safety instructions. I've never used them personally, and I don't think they've been used in awhile, but the fact remains they do exist.


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## Patrolman (30 Dec 2005)

Here is a tip how not to clean your C-7! Never let anyone use oven cleaner. Someone used at my battle school once and completely stripped the bluing (not sure about the spelling)off of their weapon.CLP is for C-7's oven cleaner is for ovens and brake cleaner is for cars.

  Oh yeah and I can't believe someone who is going to be a future leader in the army is suggesting that you toss your blanks into the bushes. I am pretty sure their are plenty of units in the CF who would love to have more blank ammo to enhance their training.

  Blanks serve many purposes in training. Imagine being a commander leading a section attack with live ammo  who never had led one with blanks on a previously . Do you think he would have the proper understaning of how hard it is to communicate with those around  him with the noise created on the battlefield. What about knowing what it feels like to carry the weight of first line ammo.? What about kowing how to change mags when one is emty.  I could go on and on. Keeps your blanks and treat them as if they were the real thing!


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## DG-41 (31 Dec 2005)

Brake cleaner is designed to dissolve lubricants and then evaporate, leaving an absolutely pristine surface. It's an awesome way to very quickly remove oil and solvents.

The downside is that it removes ALL the oil. A weapon cleaned with brake cleaner is 100% absolutely bone dry. Good for drill sticks that never see use as a weapon, horrible for weapons that actually have to be fired.

My preferred method of cleaning weapons is as follows:

1) Ensure the weapon is properly lubricated BEFORE firing. Not only does this help the weapon operate and greatly reduce wear, The oil will tend to keep the carbon in suspension, rather than caking onto the metal surfaces.

2) As soon as possible after firing, wipe the weapon down and apply a generous coat of fresh oil. The wipe-down will remove a goodly amount of the carbon/oil mix and help make the subsequent oil application more effective in dissolving the remaining carbon. If time permits, work the oil into the weapon with a stiff brush.

3) Repeat step 2 throughout the exercise. It doesn't take very long to wipe the weapon down (removing the dirty oil) and re-oil it.

4) Once back in garrison, head to the varsol bath. The varsol dissolves the oil and makes it easier to wash away. Give it a good scrub with a stiff brush while in the bath (most solvent baths have a brush with a hose on it that works well for that) This will wash away almost all the oil, carbon, and dirt. If a varsol bath is not readily availible, hot water and detergent will also work well, but the weapon will have to be COMPLETELY dried after.

5) Even if you hit it with an air gun (to dry the varsol) it still works itself into crooks and crannies and won't come out - and most varsol baths get cleaned once every million years, so the varsol is more like super thin oil anyways. Time for the brake cleaner. Give it a good spray, paying attention to crooks and crannies. NOTE: don't do this in confined spaces! This is a shop floor or outside step, not your bedspace!

6) Run the barrel brush and swabs through until the swaps pull through pristine.

7) At this point, the weapon should be completely clean. It should pass any fingers-stick-in-odd-spots tests. It is also completely unlubricated, which is a big no-no for an operational weapon. If this weapon is to be used for anything other than a on-the-bed inspection, it MUST be re-oiled.

And that does it.

DG


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## George Wallace (1 Jan 2006)

Just a point on Varsol....It is no longer approved for use in the CF by us end users.  All those neat new Varsol Baths in those new hangars, are not allowed to be used.  Something about it being a Carcinogen.


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## combatcamera (1 Jan 2006)

Off topic - but while I was working aboard HMCS WINNIPEG in the Arabian Gulf region this summer, they actually used Vaseline® on the HMG's to prevent corrosion in that humid environment.  It works.  Don't try that in Afghanistan though!


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## George Wallace (1 Jan 2006)

And in Afghanistan....you just pack the grease to your M242 to keep the dust out.


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## Hoover (1 Jan 2006)

If the dude wants to throw away his blanks, let him. Cause he's going to be cleaning his weapon twice as long as me and my buddies while we are off on the town..

This thing gets dirtier when you don't fire it!! Putting a mag of rounds through it might even be better than a coat of CLP!


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## PPCLI MCpl (1 Jan 2006)

Hoover said:
			
		

> If the dude wants to throw away his blanks, let him. Cause he's going to be cleaning his weapon twice as long as me and my buddies while we are off on the town..
> 
> This thing gets dirtier when you don't fire it!! Putting a mag of rounds through it might even be better than a coat of CLP!



Have you ever even fired blank ammo?  Nothing is filthier or more gummy than blank round carbon.


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## Pte_Martin (2 Jan 2006)

yeah i have to agree with you there. Maybe he's thinking of live ammo, after firring live i can always get my rifle really clean


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## Fishbone Jones (2 Jan 2006)

Hoover said:
			
		

> If the dude wants to throw away his blanks, let him. Cause he's going to be cleaning his weapon twice as long as me and my buddies while we are off on the town..
> 
> This thing gets dirtier when you don't fire it!! Putting a mag of rounds through it might even be better than a coat of CLP!



Hoover,

You just don't get the concept of staying in your lanes and speaking factually do you? Last chance I think.


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## JSR OP (7 Jan 2006)

On JLC we used boot silicone and really hot water....   You have to be carefull though, if you don't do it right, you get a white film on the parts being cleaned...   Don't do this at home kids.


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## Spr.Earl (13 Jan 2006)

There are no trick's to a clean weapon as your staff will alway's find a fault.


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## 1feral1 (13 Jan 2006)

jwsteele said:
			
		

> Well pardon me for causing such a fuss..... In regards to amnesty bushing the blank rounds...I don't see the big deal.  I hate firing them.  All they do is make the weapon incredibly filthy and it feels like firing a cap gun.   It's really not a big deal.



I am biting!

Great post  : Coming from an OCDT, a potential officer and leader of men, well I find that shocking. The only thing I can agee on is your military experience in your profile, with says 'nothing yet'. That is obvious!

You don't see the big deal, well I do. You hate firing them? Well pal, WTF are you doing in the Army? Its all about training for battle, training for war, whether your rifle gets dirty, or sounds like a cap gun is irrevellant. Its all about simulating live fire, and practising you section battle drills and other routines of field life.

In a nutshell with your attitude, you would not last a day in my section, and thats not copping it from me, but your fellow soldiers would sort you out, and you'd have tears as big as horse turds. I would just follow through on the admin side, firstly with a charge.

As much as it does noty fizz on me either, I use and treat my blanks rds like live rds, as do the others I train with, along with pyro and related battle-sim items. Its part of the job and training. What ever happened to train hard - fight easy, not that I am saying that combat or operational duty is easy, but I do hope you get my drift, and rather barking at me on here condemming me for having a go at you, before you put your combat boot in your mouth, just take a moment to SERIOUSLY think what you wrote. Its very unprofessional and simply trash.

Lesson learned? I guess your response will answer that. What type of Unit are you with in the first place. Any professional soldier would have a go at you quicksmart!

EDIT:

For those looking for short cuts on wpn maintenance, remember, you are what you shoot. Its not just your life, but the lives of your mates at stake. Never shower with it (or listen to other similar stupid rumours and things), thats another urban myth BUSTED. Stick to only authorised CLP and realted lubes, no abbrasives, cleaning patches and whats in the pam and cleaning kit. You can't go wrong there. You're lucky you have the Cdn climate to deal with, as here in the tropics its a complete different story. Ther is never any short cuts here, that can cause yoour wpn to fail when you need it most. The days of a 'spotless rifle white glove inspections' went out of service with the FN C1/L1A1 SLR. 

Wes


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## JSR OP (13 Jan 2006)

Wesley H. Allen said:
			
		

> I am biting!
> 
> The days of a 'spotless rifle white glove inspections' went out of service with the FN C1/L1A1 SLR.
> 
> Wes



I would love to agree with you on this point, but about the only thing you got right is the white glove isn't used, or at least I haven't seen it.  These are still the days of the spotless rifle, at least while on course.  Instructors will keep looking and finding carbon, and troops will always be looking for ways  to get rid of it.  Troops will try all kinds of inventive ideas to try to get that "spotless rifle".  Bad ideas or not, these "tips" are passed from course to course, buddy to buddy, and parent to child.  Some of the idea work, some people swear by, some are right out in left field.  

With any luck, these rifles that are used in the schools over the years, and treated to a variety of cleaning experiments, won't be used in an actual theater of operations.  Can't say I would want to depend on one of them.

Hmm... for some reason, I can't help but think of my rubber rifle at CFSCE... Man I hated that thing, but at least I didn't have to clean it!


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## dutchie (13 Jan 2006)

If I was advising a recruit, I'd say - do what your told, use what your given, don't deviate. But there ARE some good ideas out there, some I've tried, some I've not (but heard they work). But I would never advise a recruit to use them, nor condone it if I found out about it. I myself mostly use just CLP, the cleaning kit, A C5 knife, and elbow grease. The advice to always be wiping down and re-applying CLP is a good one too. That can cut down post-ex cleaning by 80%ish.

The recruit must learn the book before he can make an informed opinion on deviations. Plus, the struggle to keep your weapon clean despite little time and only the basic cleaning supplies builds a healthy work ethic for cleaning weapons. Struggle through, do your best to keep it clean, and take your licks when the Staff finds 'the most disgusting thing they've ever seen'. That's all part of being a soldier.


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## 1feral1 (15 Jan 2006)

JSR OP said:
			
		

> I would love to agree with you on this point, but about the only thing you got right is the white glove isn't used, or at least I haven't seen it.  These are still the days of the spotless rifle, at least while on course.  Instructors will keep looking and finding carbon, and troops will always be looking for ways  to get rid of it.  Troops will try all kinds of inventive ideas to try to get that "spotless rifle".  Bad ideas or not, these "tips" are passed from course to course, buddy to buddy, and parent to child.  Some of the idea work, some people swear by, some are right out in left field.
> 
> With any luck, these rifles that are used in the schools over the years, and treated to a variety of cleaning experiments, won't be used in an actual theater of operations.  Can't say I would want to depend on one of them.
> 
> Hmm... for some reason, I can't help but think of my rubber rifle at CFSCE... Man I hated that thing, but at least I didn't have to clean it!



Heat staining and carbon baked on which cannot be removed by CLP is left on the wpn parts. Any DS etc who claims it should be cleaned/removed needs to have his head read. Any loose carbon/dirt etc, sure thats open game for the beasters, but pers using unauthorised thinners and solvents are in breech of the rules set forth for preventive maintenance of the said eqpt.

So what can you use on the C7 FOW??  CLP and thats it. No other oil, solvent or lubricant is authorised PERIOD. This along with your cleaning kit acc's, and sure a blade of a Gerber can help to lift carbon, why not, just don't go overboard.

Abrasive material (emery cloth, sand, AJAX etc - ya I have seen it) or wire brushes are NOT to be used on aluminum surfaces of the C7 FOW, and nylon/plastic surfaces are not to be oiled. Oil defeats plastic over time, best to use a damp cloth for that. This info can be found in the wpns pam for this eqpt!

For those that are using gasoline, diesel, varsol, various civvy gun lubes, WD 40 etc. Don't. During my time in the CF, I had seen shocking things done, and why? Lack of properly trained NCOs and sheer IGNORANCE to the types of cleaning materials authorised. Just because its a short cut does NOT mean its good for the rifle  (or the long term health of the soldier- its also an OHS issue, or duty of care -- many things can **** you up later on when you are older). Take it from this old dog, with 30yrs service and 29 yrs in the trade of an armourer. I am not just some REMFy gun plummer know-it-all!

Just one example, I have seen know-it-alls use gasoline and similar methods (once even directed under a Warrant Officer of the Regular Force), which seeped into the buffer assemblies (causing unnecessary damage and replacement), and get into the deepest darkest holes of the rifle. 

Just use what is provided in your section/butt cleaning kit. Ensure you always have good jags and brushes which can be replaced thru the supply system. We don't got 'em is no excuse. Thats pure laziness! NCOs of the bin rats, be proactive, and get on to it, keep your Q Store up to speed, and make sure there is always a generous supply for replacement parts for the cleaning kits. 

When it comes to weapons, and safety of us all, its by the book or not at all. Anyone who goes out on a limb with unauthorised methods is circumventing the chain of command, possiblely endangering himself or his mates, and is being an individual, and not part of the team. Don't get me wrong, if you don't like it or have a better idea, put it to paper and float it to the proper authority, as your way may indeed be better.

Shoot straight,


Wes


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## Blackhorse7 (15 Jan 2006)

George... +1, as per comments dated 2005-12-29... although you don't seem to be getting the same fragging I did...  ;D


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## TCBF (15 Jan 2006)

When the PMO SARP was producing the SARP Newsletter in the late 80s/early 90s, they did mention that CLP was not to be used below a certain temp, and a winter oil was to be used below that.  

Tom


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